• Reading Terminal Market Near Independence Hall, butchers and bakers and sandwich makers fill the stalls here; Wednesdays through Saturdays, Amish vendors occupy one wing.
  12th & Arch Sts.; 215-922-2317.
• Anthropologie This clothing-and-home chain store (whose headquarters are in Philadelphia) occupies the historic, former Van Rensselaer mansion, built in 1898— excuse enough for a quick peek inside.
  1801 Walnut St.; 215-568-2114.
• Adidas Originals Store The youthful vibe along South Street translates to this funky shop selling retro sports apparel.
  436 South St.; 267-514-1952.
• Talluto’s An institution in South Philly, this Italian market showcases everything from olive oil to salamis to pastas.
  944 S. 9th St.; 215-627-4967.
• Plage Tahiti Designer jeans, women’s clothes with wit, and colorful jewelry fill this Walnut Street area boutique.
  128 S. 17th St.; 215-569-9139.
• Kohn & Kohn Antiques This longtime shop specializing in stained glass, furniture, and paintings is just one of the many stores lining Pine Street’s “Antiques Row.”
  1112 Pine St.; 215-923-0432.

East of Broad Street used to be a neighborhood known for its porn theaters, go-go bars, and check-cashing establishments. Now trendy stores and restaurants are transforming this area (locals have begun referring to it as “Midtown Village”)— bordered by 11th Street to the east, Broad Street to the west, Chestnut Street to the north, and Locust Street to the south.

Pick up stylish dishware and furniture at the innovative home décor store Open House (107 S. 13th St.). Don't be intimidated to ask advice of the friendly Absolute Abstract (141 S. 13th St.), a gallery offering affordable, quality wall art for home and office. Lose yourself in literature at scruffy and lovable Robin’s Bookstore (108 S. 13th Street), the oldest independent bookstore in town (established 1936).

Fill up on cactus-and-crab salsa and Cuervo Gold margaritas at El Vez (121 S. 13th St.), a retro-kitsch bar and restaurant with a Mexican menu and quality tequilas. For dessert, Capogiro (119 S. 13th St.) boasts the creamiest gelato this side of Capri, made fresh daily in 27 flavors, from hazelnut to bitter chocolate.

• Geno’s Steaks This city icon for cheesesteaks stays open 24/7 to meet demand. Tables on the sidewalk make for great people-watching as you indulge.
  1219 S. 9th St.; 215-389-0659.
• Ortlieb's Jazz Haus "This is the best place in the city to hear jazz," says Wine School of Philadelphia found Keith Wallace. Live music pairs with a sophisticated selection of beers and spicy Vajun fare.
  847 North Third Street; 215-922-1035.
• Franklin Fountain In Old City, take a trip into the early 20th century for an old-fashioned egg cream at this four-year-old soda fountain, with pressed-tin walls, mosaic floors, and soda jerks in vintage clothing.
  116 Market St.; 215-627-1899.
• Pink Rose Pastry Shop The china may be mismatched, but the Fiesta Cake (chocolate buttermilk cake with cream cheese icing) is sublime at this cheery café. 630 S. 4th St.; 215-592-0565.
• McGillin’s Olde Ale House For sheer age and authenticity in a bar, this spot—open since 1860— takes the prize. There’s a fireplace, big beer selection, and 25-cent wings on Tuesday nights. 1310 Drury St.; 215-735-5562.